"Setsunateki Night" Outfits
Nov. 9th, 2017 09:17 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
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hesomagariReally fascinating blog entry by Kushino Masaya, the designer for the "Setsunateki Night" outfits (though best known for weird shoes worn by the likes of Lady Gaga). He talks about sources of inspiration for the outfits and the design process. Translated from the original blog entry here.
"Setsunateki Night" Outfits
2017.09.01 09:27
"I want to make outfits using Nishijin-ori."
With those words from Okada-san, this project began.
When was it exactly that Hosoo-san introduced me to Okada-san? He'd been staying in Kyoto for Sekigahara filming. We sat at the counter of a snack bar, and he told me about all kinds of things.
Months passed, and word came that we'd be making the outfits. We started meetings right away.
When we first heard the title "Setsunateki Night", Hosoo-san and I discussed how it'd be interesting to create a world vibe that was a mix between The Great Gatsby and Arabian Nights. We imagined an enchanting, ephemeral one-night party.
With suggestions from Hosoo-san, it was decided that the material used for these outfits would be a special kind of nishijin-ori that absorbs light. When the presentation was made, we were told it was a world's first, not yet publicly announced.
The color of the cloth was originally supposed to be gold, but in order to bring out the "Setsunateki Night" world vibe, we needed something sexier and more captivating. Amidst a tight schedule, we had it changed to purple and blue.
※On the left is an unedited photo, and on the right is a smartphone photo taken with the flash on.
For the design itself, the Maharaja became the inspiration, and I got ideas from old portraits. I drew up design sketches and presented them to each of the members.
For the sash in Sakamoto-san's outfit, and for the line of Nagano-san's and Inohara-san's jackets, you should be able to see where they came from by looking at these photos.
For all of the outfits, one of the major features is that they all use many covered buttons. Even for Okada-san's jacket, which looks like a military jacket, with a change in materials it looks like something the Maharaja might have worn. Strictly speaking, you can say I borrowed elements from both Maharaja and military styles.
※Photo is of Okada-san's outfit.
As for length and balance, I already had my own image of the V6 members, so I tried to bring out each person's unique characteristics.
The MA-1 jacket that Morita-san wears of course wouldn't show up in the Maharaja world, but by combining it with a long inner shirt, I was able to link it to today's fashion while also giving him a slightly different atmosphere from the rest of the members.
For Miyake-san's jacket and pants, I thought up a design with balance that's just right for Miyake-san, who's very fashionable.
For Sakamoto-san and Inohara-san, their long jackets accentuate their height, and for Nagano-san, I created balance by using a long shirt with covered buttons in combination with his cropped jacket.
For the shoe design, the length and details were based on their corresponding outfit designs, making them fit with each. For the type with the pants tucked into the boots, I altered the design so that the hem wouldn't spill out while performing.
When making the sample shoes, I used the same material, checking the direction of the cloth and the reflection of the light.
When making outfits, a very important role exists; a patterner is the specialized craftsperson who makes the outfit patterns.
When making the patterns, they don't just measure a person's sizes; they also calculate the amount of movement and make fine adjustments accordingly. A fitting outfit is done using a material called sheeting*.
We have the artists try on the fitting outfits, and further adjustments are made. While thinking about the stretch direction of the fabric and the way it reflects, we get to work on the finishing touches.
The skill of the patterner can completely change the silhouette or comfort of an outfit. Whether a design comes alive or is killed all depends on the patterner.
I'm in the care of a fantastic patterner whom I trust greatly. My work wouldn't be possible without him, so I'm very grateful to him. For this project, he watched Okada-san's latest films and SP to research how his muscles had built up on his body. That left an impression on me.
(The members' fitting outfit samples have been on display in various locations, and apparently there were some fans who went to see all of them, which makes me very happy.)
For the shoes as well, ever since I began making shoes, I've been been in the care of a craftsperson who makes the shoes with me. I always ask him to do me huge favors in a short amount of time to make the shoes.
Even with just rough design sketches, it's thanks to the two of them that they come out so nice in the end. (Though sometimes I do draw up more detailed designs.)
And of course, thanks to the cooperation and help of many others as well, my work is possible. I want to do the kind of work that makes all of those people happy, and I think I've been able to accomplish that this time.
Being able to make the "Setsunateki Night" outfits, being able to meet the V6 members and Avex staff, this has been an incredibly fun and rewarding project.
The V6 members get along astonishingly well, and even during long, rigorous filming, the set was full of laughter till the very end. And with the choreography by Shuto Yasuyuki-san, I really admire how the members understood and were able to dance it instantly. Summed up in one phrase: just as expected.
The video piece by Team Lab is also so vivid and gorgeous that when I saw the PV, for a moment I thought it was all edited in.
※The camera actually used for filming, and staff members checking the choreography within the video.
I learned a lot.
Right now I'm bogged down with production, smack dab in the middle of preparations for my latest piece, which will be on display starting September 16 at GINZA SIX. Among the furniture in the SIXIÈME GINZA space on the second floor, my latest piece and archives will be on display for a year.
A bit different from outfit work, eccentric shoes will be on display. Those who've read this blog entry, please do come take a look.
I'll do my best to delight you.
Kushino Masaya
===
*Note: Sheeting is a material that was originally used for bedding, so think of old scratchy bed linens (or look at photos of the fitting outfits).
"Setsunateki Night" Outfits
2017.09.01 09:27
"I want to make outfits using Nishijin-ori."
With those words from Okada-san, this project began.
When was it exactly that Hosoo-san introduced me to Okada-san? He'd been staying in Kyoto for Sekigahara filming. We sat at the counter of a snack bar, and he told me about all kinds of things.
Months passed, and word came that we'd be making the outfits. We started meetings right away.
When we first heard the title "Setsunateki Night", Hosoo-san and I discussed how it'd be interesting to create a world vibe that was a mix between The Great Gatsby and Arabian Nights. We imagined an enchanting, ephemeral one-night party.
With suggestions from Hosoo-san, it was decided that the material used for these outfits would be a special kind of nishijin-ori that absorbs light. When the presentation was made, we were told it was a world's first, not yet publicly announced.
The color of the cloth was originally supposed to be gold, but in order to bring out the "Setsunateki Night" world vibe, we needed something sexier and more captivating. Amidst a tight schedule, we had it changed to purple and blue.
※On the left is an unedited photo, and on the right is a smartphone photo taken with the flash on.
For the design itself, the Maharaja became the inspiration, and I got ideas from old portraits. I drew up design sketches and presented them to each of the members.
For the sash in Sakamoto-san's outfit, and for the line of Nagano-san's and Inohara-san's jackets, you should be able to see where they came from by looking at these photos.
For all of the outfits, one of the major features is that they all use many covered buttons. Even for Okada-san's jacket, which looks like a military jacket, with a change in materials it looks like something the Maharaja might have worn. Strictly speaking, you can say I borrowed elements from both Maharaja and military styles.
※Photo is of Okada-san's outfit.
As for length and balance, I already had my own image of the V6 members, so I tried to bring out each person's unique characteristics.
The MA-1 jacket that Morita-san wears of course wouldn't show up in the Maharaja world, but by combining it with a long inner shirt, I was able to link it to today's fashion while also giving him a slightly different atmosphere from the rest of the members.
For Miyake-san's jacket and pants, I thought up a design with balance that's just right for Miyake-san, who's very fashionable.
For Sakamoto-san and Inohara-san, their long jackets accentuate their height, and for Nagano-san, I created balance by using a long shirt with covered buttons in combination with his cropped jacket.
For the shoe design, the length and details were based on their corresponding outfit designs, making them fit with each. For the type with the pants tucked into the boots, I altered the design so that the hem wouldn't spill out while performing.
When making the sample shoes, I used the same material, checking the direction of the cloth and the reflection of the light.
When making outfits, a very important role exists; a patterner is the specialized craftsperson who makes the outfit patterns.
When making the patterns, they don't just measure a person's sizes; they also calculate the amount of movement and make fine adjustments accordingly. A fitting outfit is done using a material called sheeting*.
We have the artists try on the fitting outfits, and further adjustments are made. While thinking about the stretch direction of the fabric and the way it reflects, we get to work on the finishing touches.
The skill of the patterner can completely change the silhouette or comfort of an outfit. Whether a design comes alive or is killed all depends on the patterner.
I'm in the care of a fantastic patterner whom I trust greatly. My work wouldn't be possible without him, so I'm very grateful to him. For this project, he watched Okada-san's latest films and SP to research how his muscles had built up on his body. That left an impression on me.
(The members' fitting outfit samples have been on display in various locations, and apparently there were some fans who went to see all of them, which makes me very happy.)
For the shoes as well, ever since I began making shoes, I've been been in the care of a craftsperson who makes the shoes with me. I always ask him to do me huge favors in a short amount of time to make the shoes.
Even with just rough design sketches, it's thanks to the two of them that they come out so nice in the end. (Though sometimes I do draw up more detailed designs.)
And of course, thanks to the cooperation and help of many others as well, my work is possible. I want to do the kind of work that makes all of those people happy, and I think I've been able to accomplish that this time.
Being able to make the "Setsunateki Night" outfits, being able to meet the V6 members and Avex staff, this has been an incredibly fun and rewarding project.
The V6 members get along astonishingly well, and even during long, rigorous filming, the set was full of laughter till the very end. And with the choreography by Shuto Yasuyuki-san, I really admire how the members understood and were able to dance it instantly. Summed up in one phrase: just as expected.
The video piece by Team Lab is also so vivid and gorgeous that when I saw the PV, for a moment I thought it was all edited in.
※The camera actually used for filming, and staff members checking the choreography within the video.
I learned a lot.
Right now I'm bogged down with production, smack dab in the middle of preparations for my latest piece, which will be on display starting September 16 at GINZA SIX. Among the furniture in the SIXIÈME GINZA space on the second floor, my latest piece and archives will be on display for a year.
A bit different from outfit work, eccentric shoes will be on display. Those who've read this blog entry, please do come take a look.
I'll do my best to delight you.
Kushino Masaya
===
*Note: Sheeting is a material that was originally used for bedding, so think of old scratchy bed linens (or look at photos of the fitting outfits).
no subject
Date: 2017-11-12 08:50 am (UTC)Thank you!!